One of the questions we get asked most often in the studio is:
What thread and needle should I use for bag making?
There isn’t one combination that works for every bag, material, or sewing machine. The best choice can change depending on whether you’re sewing cotton, vinyl, cork, clear vinyl, webbing, or several layers of stabilizer.
But after making a LOT of bags and helping students with different machines every week at My Handmade Space, we definitely have our favorites.
Here’s what we use and recommend in the studio.
Let’s Talk Thread
For bag making, I prefer a strong polyester thread. Polyester has the strength and durability we want for bags that are going to be carried, filled, pulled on, and used regularly.
My go-to is Gütermann Upholstery Thread.
It’s strong, durable, and gives seams and topstitching a beautiful, substantial look. The only downside is that the color selection is somewhat limited.
When I can’t find the color I need in Upholstery Thread, Gütermann Extra Strong is my second choice. It’s another great option for bag making and is available in a much larger selection of colors.
A Studio Tip for Sewing With Heavier Thread
If your sewing machine can handle heavier thread, try using the heavy thread on top only and pairing it with a regular 40–50 wt polyester thread in the bobbin.
This can make it easier to achieve smooth, balanced stitches while still getting the beautiful look of heavier thread on the outside of your bag.
Not every domestic sewing machine loves heavy thread, so always test your combination before beginning your project.
For clear vinyl, I usually switch to a regular 40–50 wt thread rather than using the heavier thread.
Thread Weight vs. Tex: What Do Those Numbers Mean?
This is where thread shopping can get confusing because there are several different systems used to describe thread size.
Two you may encounter are weight (wt) and Tex, and they work in opposite directions.
Thread Weight (wt)
With the weight system:
The LOWER the number, the THICKER the thread.
For example:
50 wt = finer
40 wt = medium/general-purpose
30 wt = heavier
So a 30 wt thread is thicker than a 50 wt thread.
Tex
Tex works in the opposite direction:
The HIGHER the Tex number, the THICKER the thread.
Tex is a measurement based on the actual mass of the thread. It tells you how many grams 1,000 meters of thread weighs.
For example, a Tex 70 thread is heavier than a Tex 40 thread.
A very simplified way to remember it is:
Weight (wt): Lower number = heavier thread
Tex: Higher number = heavier thread
You may see approximate comparisons such as 40–50 wt thread falling somewhere in the lighter-to-medium Tex range, but don’t rely on a direct conversion between the two systems. Thread “weight” isn’t completely standardized between manufacturers, and thread construction and fiber type can also affect how thick a thread actually looks and behaves.
When choosing thread, I recommend looking at the manufacturer’s intended use in addition to the number on the spool.
What About Rayon Embroidery Thread?
If you embroider, you may already have a beautiful collection of rayon thread in every color imaginable.
Rayon is wonderful for embroidery and decorative stitching because of its beautiful sheen, but I generally prefer polyester thread for bag construction.
The seams of a handbag, tote, backpack, or crossbody can take a lot of stress, so strength and durability are more important than sheen.
Save those gorgeous rayon colors for embroidery and decorative details, and use a strong polyester thread for your main construction seams.
What Needles Do We Use for Bag Making?
If you’ve taken a class with us, you probably already know our favorite.
We use a Denim 100/16 needle for most of our bag making in the studio.
It handles the layers we commonly encounter in bag construction very well, especially when working with vinyl, cork, stabilizers, interfacing, webbing, and other heavier materials.
Depending on the project, we also use:
Vinyl & Cork: Denim 100/16 — our most-used studio needle — or Microtex 90/14
Clear Vinyl: Microtex 80/12 or a non-stick needle
The right needle can change depending on your material, how many layers you’re sewing through, the thread you’re using, and your particular sewing machine.
Understanding Needle Numbers
Needle sizing is another place where all those numbers can become confusing.
Fortunately, this one is fairly simple:
The HIGHER the needle number, the LARGER the needle.
For example:
80/12 = smaller
90/14 = medium
100/16 = larger
That’s one reason we frequently reach for the Denim 100/16 when constructing bags. We’re often sewing through considerably more than two simple layers of fabric.
However, bigger isn’t automatically better. You still want to choose a needle appropriate for your thread and materials.
Don’t Forget Your Stitch Length
Thread and needles get most of the attention, but stitch length is just as important—especially when sewing vinyl and cork.
Our general starting points in the studio are:
Construction & interior seams: 2.5–3.0 mm
Basting & topstitching: 4.0–5.0 mm
That longer stitch is particularly important when working with vinyl and cork.
Unlike woven fabric, every time your needle enters vinyl or cork, it creates a permanent hole. Using lots of very short stitches can essentially perforate the material.
Longer stitches also give topstitching that beautiful professional look we want on handmade bags.
Do I Need a Special Presser Foot?
Not always.
But when you’re sewing vinyl or working through multiple bulky layers, a walking foot or Teflon/non-stick foot can make feeding your materials much easier and more even.
If your fabric isn’t moving smoothly under your regular presser foot, changing the foot can sometimes make a dramatic difference.
The Most Important Tip: Know Your Machine
You can have the perfect thread and the perfect needle and still have stitching problems.
One thing we’ve learned from having so many sewing machines used every week in our studio is that many of the problems we encounter aren’t actually machine failures.
They’re often related to things like:
- Incorrect threading
- Upper or bobbin tension
- Bobbin or bobbin-case issues
- Lint and buildup
- The wrong needle for the material
- A thread that the particular machine simply doesn’t like
Every sewing machine has its own personality.
Getting to know your machine—and learning what a good stitch looks and sounds like—will make bag making so much easier.
Always Test Before Sewing Your Bag
Before starting your project, make a little test sandwich using scraps of the actual materials in your bag.
Don’t test your stitching on two pieces of cotton if your actual seam will contain vinyl, lining, interfacing, stabilizer, and webbing.
Recreate those layers as closely as possible and test your:
Needle + thread + tension + stitch length
A few minutes of testing can save you a LOT of frustration later.
Our Bag-Making Starting Point
If you’re looking for a simple place to begin, this is what you’ll see us reaching for most often at My Handmade Space:
Thread: Strong polyester thread, with Gütermann Upholstery as our first choice and Gütermann Extra Strong when we need additional color options.
Bobbin: 40–50 wt polyester thread when using heavier thread on top, if your machine works well with that combination.
Needle: Denim 100/16 for most of our everyday bag construction.
Clear Vinyl: Microtex 80/12 with a 40–50 wt thread is a good starting point.
Topstitching: A longer 4.0–5.0 mm stitch.
And remember—these are starting points, not absolute rules. Your materials and, most importantly, your sewing machine may prefer something a little different.
That’s part of bag making: test, adjust, and find the combination that gives you the best results on your machine.
Happy Bag Making!
Anabelle
My Handmade Space
